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ON THE ROAD
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2008-2009: Austria - USA-Florida - MEXICO - CUBA - SPAIN ROMANIA - Bucharest AUSTRIA - Vienna USA - FLORIDA - Miami, Miami Beach, Coconut Grove, Coral Gables, Florida Keys, Key West, Everglades MEXICO - Mexico City, Teotihuacan, Xochimilco, Acapulco, Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Tlacolula, San Cristobal de Las Casas, Palenque, Misol-Ha, Agua Azul, Campeche, Chichen Itza, Cancun, Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Isla Cozumel CUBA - Havana, Playas del Este, Varadero, Trinidad, Valle de Los Ingenios, Playa Ancon, La Boca SPAIN - Madrid
Get flash to see this map. AUSTRIA Vienna. Our first stop. We didn't expect the city to be already prepared for Christmas with all the lights and the arrangement in Parliament Square. It was cold outside but warm in our hearts. FLORIDA USA After a long flight we've finally reached Miami. 25 degree Celsius. From winter cold to summer warm. Was a strange but pleasant sensation. We stayed on a hotel in Miami Beach and I can say I'm in love with that place on Earth. Who can't be? Free Wi-Fi and some local transport in Miami Downtown, very talking and joking people and most of all ... safe. A lot of police cars on the streets. People from Miami presented us like a tourist attraction the islands where rich and famous music and movie stars lives. And when they heard we are from Romania they said "Nadia Comaneci, right?". Aaaa, don't forget to tell you: there is no economic crisis, at least at the first look on the streets, markets, malls, terraces etc. We tried that famous american food too like MacDonald's, Burger King, KFC, hotdog from the streets, but so far Burger King was the best. Even the americans said that. The International Headquarter of Burger King is in Miami Downtown too. Another pleasant experience we had was in Little Havana, the oldest neighborhood from Miami, full of cubans people, restaurants, music and houses. Another place when I can say "I can live here" is Key West, the southern island of Florida Keys, also the southernmost continental point of USA. You feel that pirates' times in this place. And the lime pie was awesome. We visited the Ernest Hemingway's House and saw his six fingers cats. Lovely. The old port and the sponge market bring us back in time. You should ride the 7 Miles Bridge in Florida Keys. It's something that you'll not forget. In the swamps from Everglades was the first time ride with an airboat, you know that boats propelled by a big ventilator. Ecological stuff they said but with all that noise produced they scared the birds for sure at least. Was the first time too when we saw alligators in their habitat, free "like a bird". Wild and kept wild. Was an interesting experience. MEXICO Mexico City, another city already prepared for Christmas. They built a skating rink right in the middle of Zocalo Plaza and the biggest Christmas tree I ever saw, around 40 meters high. Crowd. Music. Magical realism of Frida Kahlo. Asphalt jungle. You'll find them here, in the city of Sun. Latin America don't stop amazing us. A very crowded city. There lives around 21 millions of people. Yes, wow! All the population of Romania country in a city. Imagine that! Teotihuacan, the city of those who have become gods, the biggest ancient city of Mexico. Along Calzada de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead) we have found La Ciudadela (The Citadel), Piramide del Sol (Pyramid of the Sun) and Piramide de la Luna (Pyramid of the Moon). Amazing aztecs' buildings. After 248 steps we reached the top of the Piramide del Sol, the world's third-largest pyramid, for an inspiring overview of the ancient city. An interesting detail in their walls. They put small rocks in the cement imitating the jaguar's skin. They venerate jaguars and eagles. They have a warriors order named The Jaguars. The jaguar dominates the ground and the eagle dominates the air ( view a Xochimilco (Floating Gardens), a series of canals - all that remains of the ancient Lake Xochimilco and a trip with local boats trajinera, made our day, 25 km south of Mexico City. The boat was propelled by a local guy, Juan, with a stick. Another ecological stuff (including the farts that helped the guy to do his work) Acapulco. Sun, beaches, yachts and Pacific Ocean. My big respect to the La Quebrada Cliff Divers who since 1934 have performed their impressive jumps from 35 meters into the shallow water and dangerous tides that form in the bottom part of La Quebrada. We found the place a little rusty but with that feeling of ... Acapulco. Anyway I am happy seeing that place I've dreamed about. Surfers' paradise on Playa Zicatela, a famous surf break, in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca State. Big waves whole year, lots of palm trees and large beaches. The life can really be a beach After a six hours ride through the mountains full of curves we reached Oaxaca, the capital of Oaxaca State, an UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a beautiful colonial city nestled in a valley in the Sierra Madre mountain range of Southern Mexico with chill people, music and restaurants. Magnificent colonial architecture, the most outstanding example being Santo Domingo church. We've been today to Tlacolula, for its famous Sunday market. Very exotic for us. A tianguis (open public market) held during the week and one of the busiest. We ate the best chicken on grill ever seated on a branch in a small park where a local band delighted us with their music. Near the market is the main church of the city, called La Iglesia de la Asuncion de Nuestra Senora (Our Lady of the Assumption), which has a notable Baroque-style chapel dedicated to the Senor de Tlacolula. Very nice small town. In a gourgeos highland valley, at an elevation of approximately 2100 m, where for thousands of years, Maya peoples have continuously lived in settlements, we've a colored city, San Cristobal de las Casas. The heart of the most deeply rooted indigenous areas in Mexico, with cobbled streets and aboriginal markets. We've been to "Palenque Rojo", a play about a mythical story of the Mayan ruler of Palenque, Kan Joy Chitam. Great story spoken in mayan language with aboriginal actors. We can name this colonial city "the most beautiful highland" of Mexico. We love it. ( view a Palenque (Palisade), last stands where the first hills rise out of the Gulf Coast plain and the dens jungle covering this hills. The city's ancient name was Lakamha (Big Water) named probably from the series of small waterfalls who tumbles down between the ruins. We stayed in the jungle hideouts along the road between the Modern Palenque town and the ruins in a confortable cabana, woke up in the morning by howling monkeys, toucans and ocelots. The soaring jungle-swathed temples of Palenque are one of the best Maya architecture in Mexico. The city rose to prominence under the ruler Pakal also called Jaguar Serpent II, (you know, that guy in the flying machinery looks like a rocket). The structures were characterized by mansard roof and very fine stucco bas-reliefs. The Site Museum is worth a wonder. Misol-Ha (Sweeping Water), a stuning 35 meter waterfall, a sight not to be missed if you are in the Palenque Chiapas region. The jungle is lush there and a path leads us a short distance to the falls to a calm pool at the base of jungle-covered cliffs. We took a footpath to the back side of the falls and to a small cave that goes back about 300 meters to a waterfall inside the cave. It was spectacular. Agua Azul (Blue Water), a long series of glittering cascades coursing over kilometers of lush valleys in the Sierra Madre de Chiapas Mountains. The water is blue and has a high mineral content. Where it falls on rocks or fallen trees it encases them in a thick shell-like coating of limestone. Shimmering falls, deep clear pools, steaming jungle. With sparkling turquoise water set against a deep green jungle background, the falls are probably one of the most spectacular natural attractions in Mexico. They are beautiful. Again on the road. After a long nightly trip we reached Campeche. A typical example of a harbour town from the Spanish colonial period in the New World. The historic centre has kept its outer walls and system of fortifications, designed to defend this port against attacks from the sea. An unreal city on the shore of the Gulf of Mexico, an UNESCO World Heritage site with brightly colored buildings reflective of Caribbean tastes. The name of Campeche comes from the Mayan word "Ah Kim Pech", which means "The Place of Boa Serpent". Campeche was the Carribean town most affected by pirate attacks. It has 8 bastions on the walled area of the ancient village, the largest one being Baluarte de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad. We climbed the wall for a view over town like in old times. From the rooftop terrace of the hostel, where we've stayed, we enjoyed cuban/mexican music every nights from Plaza Principal, surrounded by lighted trees and Christmas decorations. It is the cleanest and most civilized city in Mexico we saw in this trip. On the marina part is 80% look a like Miami Beach with modern buildings and malls. In the center part is a fairy tale, unreal colonial city, with colored houses like La Boca district in Buenos Aires, very clean and alive with very well restored buildings. In Plaza Principal on the second part of every day we've found concerts, opened restaurants and terraces, people playing bingo in the middle of the street, lights and music all around. Interesting and chill city for I can say "I can live here". I forgot to tell you that mexican transportation sistem is very good and at high standards. Look for ADO and OCC buses for long routes. You will enjoy your trip. The railroad don't exist anymore. For that I think they invested so well on bus-transportation and streets/trolls. Deep within the jungles of the Yucatan Peninsula Chichen Itza welcomed us with its mysterious temples and pyramids, the sacred city of Maya, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The biggest construction on the site is Kukulcan's Pyramid. This square-based, stepped pyramid was built for astronomical purposes and during the equinoxes sunlight bathes the western balustrade of the pyramid's main stairway. That causes seven isosceles triangles to form imitating the body of a serpent that creeps downwards until it joins the huge serpent's head carved in stone at the bottom of the stairway. The feathered serpent is the symbolic descent of Kukulcan, the Maya supreme god (the Aztec merged him with their Quetzalcoatl). We saw that serpent effect in a nightly show of lights and music in the ruins area. We enjoyed our night stay here in a very quite and rustic bungalow. After a short ride by bus we reached the Mexican Carribean coastline so-called "Riviera Maya". We accomodated in Cancun, a coastal city located on the Yucatan Channel that separates Mexico from the island of Cuba. A very nice city on the mainland which connects over the Nichupte and Bojorquez lagoons to a narrow "7" shaped island where the modern beachfront hotels are located. The feeling here started to be different from the north part of Mexico. Tulum. The walled city. A combination of a beach, archeological zone and town. Here is one of the most beautiful beach in the Caribbean with its sugar sands, jade-green water, balmy breezes and bright sun. It's a paradise where you'll tend to throw off your ticket home. The Tulum ruins are the third most-visited archaeological site in Mexico, after Teotihuacan and Chichen Itza. On the facade of Temple of the Descending God is a figure sculpted head down, and the walls inside show traces of the original pigments applied by the Maya. The descending figure is thought to represent a deity and Tulum appears to have been the center of his cult. At "Don Cafeto" restaurant, located near the ruins, we had the best meals in Mexico and ate the best pickles in the World. Tulum's greatest attraction after all is its location. Nothing less than spectacular. We took a Colectivos Bus and reached Playa del Carmen, a city with an european chic look and pretty nice beaches, laid on Riviera Maya. From Playa del Carmen we took the ferry to Isla Cozumel, a world-famous diving and cruise ships destination. This we had a big surprise with the accommodation at Villa Anna Maria, not far from the pier and downtown. The house is incredible beauty, peaceful and full with positive energy. The owner, Txepo (he designed and build this lovely house), Jamie, the dogs (Mundaca, Lola, Gracy), the cats (Galax, Leona), Josefa and Don Rafael make us felt very welcomed like meeting old friends. They make us feel at home on Planet Earth. The dive adventures with Txepo (has 25 years of diving experience), was great, unforgettable. The water has a fantastic year-round visibility, around 30 meters. We saw turtles, lots of colored fish, groupers, sponges, corals, an impressive variety of marine life. On the second dive we get lost, missed the riffs and swimed in search of our boat. That was one of the fun part of the underwater adventure. We enjoyed. We explored the island by scooter. On the eastern shoreline, the wildest part of the island, we encountered beautiful seascapes, many small blowholes, big waves, palm trees and gorgeous beaches. Heaven can wait, you know! We've stopped for drinks and some food at the "Rasta Bar" enjoying the reggae music and the breeze. There is a spot for topless picture only One more night in Cancun and we were ready to board the plane to Cuba. At the airport we've met two guys from USA who, after we've said we are from Romania, asked us if we are gymnasts. Like Nadia, ha ha! CUBA Havana, a city filled with functional old cars from the '50 and buildings with incredible impressive architecture. It's quite hard but with a little effort you can imagine the glory days of Havana. Despite of misery from the streets and the rusty and faded houses you can feel the Cuban life. Lots of people whistled and horned to take us by taxi or to sell us "original" Cuban cigars, but with all of that annoying approach we really enjoyed our days in this marvelous city. We found accommodation in a casa particular where a nice Cuban family offered us well privacy and good desayunos. They have lots of parrots who woke up us every morning with their "talk". The city is like a chameleon with many contrasts from Vieja and Centro old time's areas to Vedado and Miramar the newest parts of Havana. Walking on Malecon was relaxing and a way out from crowdie streets. We've met some people who told us about a Salsa Festival on some areas but we didn't find any salsa performance on the streets. The Havana's greatest attraction remains after all its authenticity who seduced everyone from Caribbean pirates to foreign tourists wearing Cuban hats and Che Guevara T-shirts. Here we've discovered also the mojito drink, a delicious mix of Cuban rum, mint, water and ice. It was very tasty and refreshing. After a short and crowdie ride by bus we've stopped in Playas del Este, on the shore of Atlantic Ocean in the Straits of Florida. Chill town during daylight with beaches affected by the hurricanes but still exotic. We saw also washed out on the shore that blue jellyfishes known as Portuguese man-of-war. They are weird, fascinated sea creatures, still dangerous that you don't want to interfere in the water. When the night falls over the city the night-life starts, the discos are challenging in the power of sound hearing them from kilometers. We've stayed at a state run hotel Villa Hermosa, in Guanabo area, with well services and smiley people. Every night near the hotel's pool they set disco parties, live music performance and cabarets that make us fall asleep late. We enjoyed our time here. Getting around in Cuba is sometimes like a lottery. On one chilly morning we went to a remote station, just a small hut in the middle of nowhere, surrounded only by birds and cows, near Guanabo and waited no less than 2 hours for the "scenic" train to Matanzas. Of course the train didn't appear and we've given up thinking to other destination. The lady from Informacion Turistica didn't give us much help and we were lucky catching the bus to Varadero, who just stopped across the street (the lady didn't know about it, hm!). Located on Hicacos Peninsula, Varadero is an exotic mix of sun, sand and sea, sublime and ridiculous, with uninspiring architecture and spread out facilities. The beautifully large beaches with white sand and absolutely crystal waters compensate the lack of attractions and made our time there pleasant. There we saw a lot of cute lizards with curly tale. Trinidad, Cuba's oldest and most enchanting colonial town with cobblestone streets and well restored houses is one of the UNESCO World Heritage site. Wedged spectacularly between the Sierra del Escambray Mountains and the Carribean Sea its natural setting is spectacular. On the time we arrived in, the city was celebrating the 450 years of existence, Semana de la Cultura Trinitaria. Near the Plaza Mayor, cultural shows enchanted us every night. North of the old town, a hike up the hill to a former Spanish military hospital delivered us broad vistas of Trinidad and the entire coast. We've taken a train pulled by steam engine built by the Baldwin Locomotive Company of Philadelphia in 1919 (it really is functional) and goes to Valle de Los Ingenios, where are ruins of dozen of 19th-century sugar mills. It was a sublime experience over slender bridges and across lush green fields of sugarcane and palm trees. At Manaca Iznaga we've climbed to the top of the 44m-high tower build by Pedro Iznaga next to his hacienda and "watched the slaves" through his eyes. The landscape view from there was breathless ( view a In the last day in Trinidad we've rented a scooter and took the road on south peninsula Playa Ancon, a luscious ribbon of white beach lapped by the blue waters of the Carribean Sea. We've enjoyed the ride in wildest coastal parts of the peninsula too. We've come back with a picturesque detour on the coastal road through La Boca, a small and quiet town, where we've watched a beautifully sunset from its rocky beach. We can say from this point that Trinidad and the surroundings were the highlight of our trip in Cuba. We've decided to come back in Playas del Este and rest for a couple of days before packing and end the trip. It seems the weather knows we are leaving and offered us a very showery goodbye. Despite the rain and the wind we've enjoyed the big waves hitting the beach an imagined how nusty can be in the hurricane season. As a final note this was the only consecutive days of rain in this 2 months trip, except a small 15 minutes shower in Cozumel (Mexico) and one nightly rain in Havana. SPAIN One more day in Madrid, enough to visit the center of the city and remember how cold is the weather in this season in Europe. Brrrrrr! This trip in those parts of Central America was unforgettable and inspiring. We've ended this trip with a promise of comeback sometime in this life, especially in Mexico. |
